Jerry, I heard you on the ‘Living on Earth’ program on NPR and I am interested in what you had to say. I agree that Albert Einstein was a very smart guy, but I hope you were wrong when you said that Einstein predicted, “that if honey bees became extinct, human society would follow in four years.” Human society existed in the New World for several thousand years before European colonists introduced the non-native honey bee.

I have some questions that perhaps you could follow up on. First, I assume that imidacloprid has been in use for some time (long enough for the Europeans to realize it should be banned, anyway); if this is true, why is it only now causing “colony collapse disorder”? Is it interacting with some other chemical(s), or has years of use finally brought the honey bees to a tipping point? Second, while losing honey bees would definitely be a tremendous blow, how much of the pollinating slack might be taken up by other bees (and critters other than bees)?

Craig, thank you for the great questions and comments. You are absolutely correct in stating that there was a highly adapted and advanced human society in the New World long before Europeans gave any thought to sailing across the sea. And, equally, so there was a highly developed beekeeping industry amongst the indigenous people of South and Central America and Mexico. They used a different species of “bee” we now call Melipona. Its management is different than the honey bees we use from European introduction, but it produced honey, and wax which was used extensively as a food and medicine and in brewing. This bee is still important in the environment, but is disappearing as well due to loss of habitat and other reasons. Dr. Rogel Villanueva Gutierrez (email: rogel@ecosurqroo.mx) has written a “how to” book in Spanish and Mayan on maintaining this connection with this bee(s), which is excellent.

Imidacloprid has been used for several years and yes in Europe it has been banned in some countries. Its use has become more pervasive as a systemic insecticide in recent years. Being a systemic, it can travel or translocate into the nectar and pollen of flowering plants. Pollinators feeding on nectar and pollen can feed on this directly and take it back to their nest to store and feed on at a later time or feed it to developing young as well. The concentration of this material in nectar and pollen is not lethal. So, the question is what is the effect of chronic long-term exposure to these chemicals?

Imidacloprid is now being combined with fungicides, which increases it efficacy by a 1000% or more. Add in miticide exposure as beekeepers keep the introduced Asian Varroa mite at bay from destroying colonies, viruses vectored by varroa, a newly introduced protozoan, fungi, yeasts, bacteria and who knows what else and honey bees are challenged. I do think imidacloprids are not good for honey bees, but I do not personally think they are the “smoking gun” so to speak. It may be a combination of things that are intersecting that ultimately is the cause.

As to your second question, other pollinators also feed on nectar and pollen from the same sources as honey bees, so what the link is there is unclear at this time. I can tell you that one pollinator, a bumble bee, has recently become extinct in California and others are at low population levels. Honey bees, because of their large population numbers and their ability to move their nest (colony or hive) to different locations, makes them the keystone foundational pollinator species of agriculture. Other bees are good, but they can’t fill the void completely of fewer honey bees. I hope this helps.

Hello Jerry – I am writing to you in response to the Colony Collapse survey request that was in the Letters to the Editor in the March 2007 ABJ. My Father feels that the CCD is possibly caused by the genetically engineered crops using viruses to kill insects. The bees for the short time that they are alive are carriers of the virus. Worldwide, wherever genetically engineered crops are propagated, bees/beekeeping will be affected. Migratory beekeeping is translocating diseased hives interstate. Drifting spreads genetically engineered plant pollen locally via wind. All beneficial insects are at risk.

We (on the island of Maui, Hawaii) have noticed the same as that mentioned in Florida — absence of robbing, wax moth, etc. There were no dead bees in front or in the hive except those robbed by another colony. It looks as though the bees just left. We do not have any import of bees, but do have genetically engineered crops here on Maui. Queens are raised from existing stock. Hives are not medicated except for a few if American Foulbrood is present. My Dad’s reasoning sounds plausible since we are an isolated state/island and are one of the few places in the world with bees without varroa. And, since we are experiencing the same as the mainland, the only thing we have in common is a genetically modified crop. The crops grown here have only started within a few years and there is a fight to stop them from being farmed here. I’m worried that these genetically modified crops will do humanity in since we as humans and livestock consume these crops and we are probably carriers of these viruses since they aren’t killing us. It may be a day too soon that all the beneficial insects that do our pollinating will be gone. That’s scary when they say that about every fourth bite we take was made possible by the bee. Well, let me know what you think.

Courtney, how in the world can you write an email like that and end with “Cheerio, Courtney”? You must have nerves of steel. I have not heard of any genetically engineered crops that use live viruses. Genetically engineered crops that carry a gene from some other organism for a toxin (poison) to kill sucking or chewing insects is well documented, but not the whole organism. This toxin could possibly hurt honey bees as well.

In CCD the bees are just as you describe with no predators or robbing. In our studies the few bees left have secondary infections from normally occurring organisms. Their immune systems are breaking down, but from what? Is it the viruses transmitted by varroa or the varroa itself? Is it the new Nosema, Nosema ceranae? Or, is it a genetic problem, fungus, yeast or bacteria that has become more pathogenic? There is evidence that some systemic pesticides used on ag crops can have a negative effect on honey bees. Is it one of these or some of these or all of these or none of these? That is what we are trying to find out. If you or your Dad have some information on live virus use on ag crops, please let me know. We have heard in Hawaii that some bee losses have occurred as coffee, when in bloom, is sprayed with chemicals. Macadamia nut is also sprayed with pesticides that become systemic and show up in nectar and pollen. It is still all a mystery. Thank you for caring and thinking about the problem.

Jerry, in the past I have avoided using anything that would interfere with the pheromones in a hive. But, I have decided to use Hood small hive beetle (SHB) traps to lower the count in my hives. Overall, what bait is most effective? And, is there effective bait that is less offensive to the bees than other baits? Thanks for your help.

Don, remember that SHB is not a beetle problem, it is a side effect of varroa or whatever else is causing your colony to become weak, providing an opportunity for SHB to reproduce. The SHB is looking for food for its young to feed on — protein, vitamins, and minerals, as found in honey, beebread and larvae and pupae. In SHB traps we have used pollen substitute, hot dogs, peanut butter sandwich pieces, etc. Soy flour, as found in pollen sub, works as well as anything.

Jerry, I am new to beekeeping (4 years) and have just recently subscribed to the Bee Journal. Honestly, the big draw to subscribe was to be able to get into your Classroom and leverage your experience to help avoid problems, as well as solve them (Please keep up the great work). I live in Illinois, not to far from your old stomping grounds of Hamilton, IL. My problem is, every two years I am losing my one and only hive, over the winter. The first time was a learning experience since I had the hive too air tight and had moisture issues—a bad learning experience, but a learning experience nevertheless.

My problem this year was quite strange to me. I asked another beekeeper this question, but with no help. When I realized I had lost the hive, I looked to find that the bees were in a perfect winter cluster. I even found the queen in the center of the cluster. There was plenty of surplus honey available in the super above them and even a frame full of honey two frames over. There was no brood (larvae or eggs) that I could see; the frames were empty and clean. The winter this year started out warm and wet and then around January turned cold (dipped below zero with no wind chill) with several inches of snow, and, as you may recall, winter in Illinois can be quite windy. I stack straw bails around my hive (except the front) to help fight the wind and leave about 1 - 2 foot of space between the hay bales and hive. I am at a loss Jerry. I medicate my bees every fall and try to do the right things, but with no luck. I would like to increase the number of hives I manage, but until I feel confident of doing the right things, I will stick to my one.

Brian, it gets kind of discouraging doesn’t it sometimes? Thank you for the Classroom compliment. We are all in this together. I appreciate it. Winters in the Midwest can be incredibly variable, as you well know. It is a pretty harsh environment. Temperatures in winter can be 40 degrees F. and 6 hours later it can be 0 degrees F. With no mountains or large lakes to modify temperatures, fronts can move in, through and across, easily bringing drastic changes. You have to be tough to live in the Midwest.

I think that your situation is unfortunately fairly typical at the end of winter/early spring where there is an intersection of several things. Your colony may have stored honey left, but still starve to death. The cluster at this time of the year may be as small as it will ever be. Bees have died over the last six months or so of winter and have not been fully replaced. The warm periods you have had forced the bees to eat a lot of the stored honey around them. Then, you had one of those Arctic events that take place where you live. The cluster was already small and having a hard time thermo regulating (keeping warm). Now it got so cold so quickly that the cluster couldn’t generate enough heat to move to honey sources. They stayed right where they were and died of cold and lack of food, even though food was relatively near in your eyes. One can be the best beekeeper in the world and have this happen. I would select queens from northern producers and be sure as late summer comes that pests, predators and diseases are under control, and that there is 60+ lbs. of honey available. Keep the colony in a southern exposure and out of direct winter winds and then cross your fingers. Having only one colony dooms you to failure at some time, so try for two. Then, even if you lose 50% of your colonies, you still are in business. Hang in there. If it were easy, everybody would be doing it.

Hello Mr. Hayes, thank you so much for meeting with me the other day. It was very helpful to learn from your expertise. I want to get clarification on what factors come together to ultimately stress the bees out. A direct quote would be even better! You mentioned cramped living space, insecticides for mites, shipping them around, unnatural feed, and external factors such as pollution. Please let me know if I am missing anything or putting words in your mouth! If you do want to provide a direct quote via email that would be wonderful! Thanks again, you’re a great help.

Katie, let me see if I can add anything to our conversation. Honey bees are not a domesticated animal that we would see on a farm. Yes, honey bees have been modified by breeding to be a certain color or have certain traits that can be selected for, but they are still wild animals that only tolerate us because we can provide a home that they can live in. If they decide that their living conditions are not being met, they can leave and live just as happily in a hollow tree or your attic. I said all that because man has developed this “hardware” that allows us to manipulate a colony of honey bees to his/her advantage that within certain parameters, honey bees tolerate and live in. According to data, the cavity size of the “hardware” that beekeepers use is incorrect. It is too large for normal conditions. We then force honey bees to maintain a population much larger than is natural in this really large box in order to maximize honey production.

Now, add in introduced mites, pests and diseases, environmental toxins, agricultural chemicals, a shallow genetic pool, substitute and supplemental food replacements that beekeepers use to keep inordinately large honey bee colonies large and then load them on a truck to take them hundreds or thousands of miles away.

I don’t know what honey bee stress is, but this may be it! Are honey bees, a very small organism, the canary in the coalmine that is alerting “us” that not only are they succumbing to multiple stress factors, but that other animals or humans may be next? Should we be paying more attention? Sorry to be so wordy Katie, but I didn’t know how to shorten up what I wanted to say.

Hello again, Jerry. I recently made splits and introduced queen cells. I’m fighting the urge to open them up. I read that virgin queens can spook easily, start running and then be stung to death. How long should I wait for the first detailed inspection? Keep up the great work with your Classroom.

Good morning, Sam. Generally, if the weather is good, virgins, once emerged, will have mated and will be functioning queens in 10-14 days. We open up colonies all the time with virgins in them and it probably is not a great thing, but since virgins are not recognized as anything because they do not have a pheromone signature, it does not seem to matter much. Just be careful and cautious, so you don’t accidentally kill her during your inspection.

My name is Patrick and this will be my second year of raising bees. I failed my first year on keeping my hive alive due (I think) to excessive time spent on checking and maintaining the hive. I am still going give it another try. Question, how often should I check on the hive process through the year? What time of the year should I check more? Thanks. P.S. do you send out any info for us who are interested in the hive-raising hobby?

Patrick, I am sorry that you had problems that caused you to lose your first colony. Having two colonies sometimes allows you to have some flexibility if you lose one. I think in the article (Countryside magazine) that I mentioned companies that supply equipment and educational materials in the form of books, videos, catalogs, etc. Your State most likely has beekeeping organizations that can help you and check out the web and your local library for “How-to” information.

Having a colony relatively free of pests, predators and diseases with plenty of stored resources is the path to success. The opposite causes colony death most of the time. Learn to check your colony for signs of how well the queen is doing and for the pests and disease issues that weaken a colony. For a new beekeeper learning to visually inspect and manipulate a colony every week is not too much. Like everything else, the only way to become a better beekeeper is to be proactive and with various resources available, this practice is more effective every time you do it.

Jerry, 1. How would a 1 1/2-story colony do with overwintering in Iowa? 2. How much honey can you harvest from a split? 3. Why are you not supposed to use plastic and wax foundation in the same colony? 4. What is your favorite bee breed and why? 5. I had two hives die last winter and I blocked the entrance, but not the top cover. So, my other bees (which are Italians) robbed the hive. I now have the top blocked, but when I install my package bees this spring, will robbing still be a problem? And, will the Italian colony be mean? 6. Should I feed pollen patties to package bees? Will it help them that much?


	The Classroom by Jerry Hayes Please send your questions to Jerry Hayes, 17505 NW Hwy 335, Williston, FL 32696 Email: gwhayes54@yahoo.com

		from the June 2007 American Bee Journal Q Bees in History Jerry, I heard you on the ‘Living on Earth’ program on NPR and I am interested in what you had to say. I agree that Albert Einstein was a very smart guy, but I hope you were wrong when you said that Einstein predicted, “that if honey bees became extinct, human society would follow in four years.” Human society existed in the New World for several thousand years before European colonists introduced the non-native honey bee. I have some questions that perhaps you could follow up on. First, I assume that imidacloprid has been in use for some time (long enough for the Europeans to realize it should be banned, anyway); if this is true, why is it only now causing “colony collapse disorder”? Is it interacting with some other chemical(s), or has years of use finally brought the honey bees to a tipping point? Second, while losing honey bees would definitely be a tremendous blow, how much of the pollinating slack might be taken up by other bees (and critters other than bees)? Craig Federhen A Craig, thank you for the great questions and comments. You are absolutely correct in stating that there was a highly adapted and advanced human society in the New World long before Europeans gave any thought to sailing across the sea. And, equally, so there was a highly developed beekeeping industry amongst the indigenous people of South and Central America and Mexico. They used a different species of “bee” we now call Melipona. Its management is different than the honey bees we use from European introduction, but it produced honey, and wax which was used extensively as a food and medicine and in brewing. This bee is still important in the environment, but is disappearing as well due to loss of habitat and other reasons. Dr. Rogel Villanueva Gutierrez (email: rogel@ecosurqroo.mx) has written a “how to” book in Spanish and Mayan on maintaining this connection with this bee(s), which is excellent. Imidacloprid has been used for several years and yes in Europe it has been banned in some countries. Its use has become more pervasive as a systemic insecticide in recent years. Being a systemic, it can travel or translocate into the nectar and pollen of flowering plants. Pollinators feeding on nectar and pollen can feed on this directly and take it back to their nest to store and feed on at a later time or feed it to developing young as well. The concentration of this material in nectar and pollen is not lethal. So, the question is what is the effect of chronic long-term exposure to these chemicals? Imidacloprid is now being combined with fungicides, which increases it efficacy by a 1000% or more. Add in miticide exposure as beekeepers keep the introduced Asian Varroa mite at bay from destroying colonies, viruses vectored by varroa, a newly introduced protozoan, fungi, yeasts, bacteria and who knows what else and honey bees are challenged. I do think imidacloprids are not good for honey bees, but I do not personally think they are the “smoking gun” so to speak. It may be a combination of things that are intersecting that ultimately is the cause. As to your second question, other pollinators also feed on nectar and pollen from the same sources as honey bees, so what the link is there is unclear at this time. I can tell you that one pollinator, a bumble bee, has recently become extinct in California and others are at low population levels. Honey bees, because of their large population numbers and their ability to move their nest (colony or hive) to different locations, makes them the keystone foundational pollinator species of agriculture. Other bees are good, but they can’t fill the void completely of fewer honey bees. I hope this helps. Q All Around the “GMO” Bush... Hello Jerry – I am writing to you in response to the Colony Collapse survey request that was in the Letters to the Editor in the March 2007 ABJ. My Father feels that the CCD is possibly caused by the genetically engineered crops using viruses to kill insects. The bees for the short time that they are alive are carriers of the virus. Worldwide, wherever genetically engineered crops are propagated, bees/beekeeping will be affected. Migratory beekeeping is translocating diseased hives interstate. Drifting spreads genetically engineered plant pollen locally via wind. All beneficial insects are at risk. We (on the island of Maui, Hawaii) have noticed the same as that mentioned in Florida — absence of robbing, wax moth, etc. There were no dead bees in front or in the hive except those robbed by another colony. It looks as though the bees just left. We do not have any import of bees, but do have genetically engineered crops here on Maui. Queens are raised from existing stock. Hives are not medicated except for a few if American Foulbrood is present. My Dad’s reasoning sounds plausible since we are an isolated state/island and are one of the few places in the world with bees without varroa. And, since we are experiencing the same as the mainland, the only thing we have in common is a genetically modified crop. The crops grown here have only started within a few years and there is a fight to stop them from being farmed here. I’m worried that these genetically modified crops will do humanity in since we as humans and livestock consume these crops and we are probably carriers of these viruses since they aren’t killing us. It may be a day too soon that all the beneficial insects that do our pollinating will be gone. That’s scary when they say that about every fourth bite we take was made possible by the bee. Well, let me know what you think. Cheerio, Courtney A Courtney, how in the world can you write an email like that and end with “Cheerio, Courtney”? You must have nerves of steel. I have not heard of any genetically engineered crops that use live viruses. Genetically engineered crops that carry a gene from some other organism for a toxin (poison) to kill sucking or chewing insects is well documented, but not the whole organism. This toxin could possibly hurt honey bees as well. In CCD the bees are just as you describe with no predators or robbing. In our studies the few bees left have secondary infections from normally occurring organisms. Their immune systems are breaking down, but from what? Is it the viruses transmitted by varroa or the varroa itself? Is it the new Nosema, Nosema ceranae? Or, is it a genetic problem, fungus, yeast or bacteria that has become more pathogenic? There is evidence that some systemic pesticides used on ag crops can have a negative effect on honey bees. Is it one of these or some of these or all of these or none of these? That is what we are trying to find out. If you or your Dad have some information on live virus use on ag crops, please let me know. We have heard in Hawaii that some bee losses have occurred as coffee, when in bloom, is sprayed with chemicals. Macadamia nut is also sprayed with pesticides that become systemic and show up in nectar and pollen. It is still all a mystery. Thank you for caring and thinking about the problem. Q SHB Revisited Jerry, in the past I have avoided using anything that would interfere with the pheromones in a hive. But, I have decided to use Hood small hive beetle (SHB) traps to lower the count in my hives. Overall, what bait is most effective? And, is there effective bait that is less offensive to the bees than other baits? Thanks for your help. Don Anderson A Don, remember that SHB is not a beetle problem, it is a side effect of varroa or whatever else is causing your colony to become weak, providing an opportunity for SHB to reproduce. The SHB is looking for food for its young to feed on — protein, vitamins, and minerals, as found in honey, beebread and larvae and pupae. In SHB traps we have used pollen substitute, hot dogs, peanut butter sandwich pieces, etc. Soy flour, as found in pollen sub, works as well as anything. Q Newbie or is it New Bee Woes? Jerry, I am new to beekeeping (4 years) and have just recently subscribed to the Bee Journal. Honestly, the big draw to subscribe was to be able to get into your Classroom and leverage your experience to help avoid problems, as well as solve them (Please keep up the great work). I live in Illinois, not to far from your old stomping grounds of Hamilton, IL. My problem is, every two years I am losing my one and only hive, over the winter. The first time was a learning experience since I had the hive too air tight and had moisture issues—a bad learning experience, but a learning experience nevertheless. My problem this year was quite strange to me. I asked another beekeeper this question, but with no help. When I realized I had lost the hive, I looked to find that the bees were in a perfect winter cluster. I even found the queen in the center of the cluster. There was plenty of surplus honey available in the super above them and even a frame full of honey two frames over. There was no brood (larvae or eggs) that I could see; the frames were empty and clean. The winter this year started out warm and wet and then around January turned cold (dipped below zero with no wind chill) with several inches of snow, and, as you may recall, winter in Illinois can be quite windy. I stack straw bails around my hive (except the front) to help fight the wind and leave about 1 - 2 foot of space between the hay bales and hive. I am at a loss Jerry. I medicate my bees every fall and try to do the right things, but with no luck. I would like to increase the number of hives I manage, but until I feel confident of doing the right things, I will stick to my one. Brian G. Nordmann A Brian, it gets kind of discouraging doesn’t it sometimes? Thank you for the Classroom compliment. We are all in this together. I appreciate it. Winters in the Midwest can be incredibly variable, as you well know. It is a pretty harsh environment. Temperatures in winter can be 40 degrees F. and 6 hours later it can be 0 degrees F. With no mountains or large lakes to modify temperatures, fronts can move in, through and across, easily bringing drastic changes. You have to be tough to live in the Midwest. I think that your situation is unfortunately fairly typical at the end of winter/early spring where there is an intersection of several things. Your colony may have stored honey left, but still starve to death. The cluster at this time of the year may be as small as it will ever be. Bees have died over the last six months or so of winter and have not been fully replaced. The warm periods you have had forced the bees to eat a lot of the stored honey around them. Then, you had one of those Arctic events that take place where you live. The cluster was already small and having a hard time thermo regulating (keeping warm). Now it got so cold so quickly that the cluster couldn’t generate enough heat to move to honey sources. They stayed right where they were and died of cold and lack of food, even though food was relatively near in your eyes. One can be the best beekeeper in the world and have this happen. I would select queens from northern producers and be sure as late summer comes that pests, predators and diseases are under control, and that there is 60+ lbs. of honey available. Keep the colony in a southern exposure and out of direct winter winds and then cross your fingers. Having only one colony dooms you to failure at some time, so try for two. Then, even if you lose 50% of your colonies, you still are in business. Hang in there. If it were easy, everybody would be doing it. Q Student Interview Hello Mr. Hayes, thank you so much for meeting with me the other day. It was very helpful to learn from your expertise. I want to get clarification on what factors come together to ultimately stress the bees out. A direct quote would be even better! You mentioned cramped living space, insecticides for mites, shipping them around, unnatural feed, and external factors such as pollution. Please let me know if I am missing anything or putting words in your mouth! If you do want to provide a direct quote via email that would be wonderful! Thanks again, you’re a great help. Katie Adamson A Katie, let me see if I can add anything to our conversation. Honey bees are not a domesticated animal that we would see on a farm. Yes, honey bees have been modified by breeding to be a certain color or have certain traits that can be selected for, but they are still wild animals that only tolerate us because we can provide a home that they can live in. If they decide that their living conditions are not being met, they can leave and live just as happily in a hollow tree or your attic. I said all that because man has developed this “hardware” that allows us to manipulate a colony of honey bees to his/her advantage that within certain parameters, honey bees tolerate and live in. According to data, the cavity size of the “hardware” that beekeepers use is incorrect. It is too large for normal conditions. We then force honey bees to maintain a population much larger than is natural in this really large box in order to maximize honey production. Now, add in introduced mites, pests and diseases, environmental toxins, agricultural chemicals, a shallow genetic pool, substitute and supplemental food replacements that beekeepers use to keep inordinately large honey bee colonies large and then load them on a truck to take them hundreds or thousands of miles away. I don’t know what honey bee stress is, but this may be it! Are honey bees, a very small organism, the canary in the coalmine that is alerting “us” that not only are they succumbing to multiple stress factors, but that other animals or humans may be next? Should we be paying more attention? Sorry to be so wordy Katie, but I didn’t know how to shorten up what I wanted to say. Q Go Ahead and Check Them Hello again, Jerry. I recently made splits and introduced queen cells. I’m fighting the urge to open them up. I read that virgin queens can spook easily, start running and then be stung to death. How long should I wait for the first detailed inspection? Keep up the great work with your Classroom. Sam Atsaides Rhodes, Greece A Good morning, Sam. Generally, if the weather is good, virgins, once emerged, will have mated and will be functioning queens in 10-14 days. We open up colonies all the time with virgins in them and it probably is not a great thing, but since virgins are not recognized as anything because they do not have a pheromone signature, it does not seem to matter much. Just be careful and cautious, so you don’t accidentally kill her during your inspection. Q Don’t be Afraid to Look My name is Patrick and this will be my second year of raising bees. I failed my first year on keeping my hive alive due (I think) to excessive time spent on checking and maintaining the hive. I am still going give it another try. Question, how often should I check on the hive process through the year? What time of the year should I check more? Thanks. P.S. do you send out any info for us who are interested in the hive-raising hobby? Patrick A Patrick, I am sorry that you had problems that caused you to lose your first colony. Having two colonies sometimes allows you to have some flexibility if you lose one. I think in the article (Countryside magazine) that I mentioned companies that supply equipment and educational materials in the form of books, videos, catalogs, etc. Your State most likely has beekeeping organizations that can help you and check out the web and your local library for “How-to” information. Having a colony relatively free of pests, predators and diseases with plenty of stored resources is the path to success. The opposite causes colony death most of the time. Learn to check your colony for signs of how well the queen is doing and for the pests and disease issues that weaken a colony. For a new beekeeper learning to visually inspect and manipulate a colony every week is not too much. Like everything else, the only way to become a better beekeeper is to be proactive and with various resources available, this practice is more effective every time you do it. Q Overwintering in Iowa Jerry, 1. How would a 1 1/2-story colony do with overwintering in Iowa? 2. How much honey can you harvest from a split? 3. Why are you not supposed to use plastic and wax foundation in the same colony? 4. What is your favorite bee breed and why? 5. I had two hives die last winter and I blocked the entrance, but not the top cover. So, my other bees (which are Italians) robbed the hive. I now have the top blocked, but when I install my package bees this spring, will robbing still be a problem? And, will the Italian colony be mean? 6. Should I feed pollen patties to package bees? Will it help them that much?

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